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Twenty-first century dust bowl

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Close view of a pinned, hand-gathered oval hip panel on a cream cotton toile, still on the dress form.
Pinned and gathered hip panel on a cotton toilecottonENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉSa042
A cream sheer fabric is worked in progress on a linen dress form, the bodice gathered into dense fine pin-tucks along a curved yoke and held with rows of pins, the skirt falling away below in soft vertical folds.
Cream sheer bodice pinned and pin-tucked in progress on a dress formENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉSa442
Cream cotton toile gown on a dress form, side view, gathered hip panel pinned in progress, in the studio.
Cream cotton toile of a floor-length gown on a dress formcottonENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉSa041
Cream cotton toile gown on a wire dress form in the studio, corseted bodice with one draped skirt panel falling to the floor.
Cream cotton toile gown on a wire dress formcottonENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉSa043
White long-sleeved gown with a shirred bodice, knotted bow trims, a ruffled band at the hip and a tiered gathered skirt, on a dress form in the studio.
White long-sleeved gown with shirring, bow trims and tiered skirtKIM Ka123
White long-sleeved dress on a dress form: ruched bodice with self-covered buttons, a ruffled band at the hip and a gathered, knotted skirt with a train.
White long-sleeved dress with ruffled peplum and gathered trainKIM Ka196
Yellow jersey halter dress with a deep open back and knotted detail at the waist, rear view, worn in a dressing room.
Yellow jersey halter dress with open backknitKIM Ka133
Black velvet bra top with lace trim worn with a lilac slip skirt, full length, photographed in a dressing room
Black velvet bra top with ivory lace trim and lilac slip skirt with lace hemmixedKIM Ka141
Washed charcoal fleece cargo trousers with drawstring waist, flap cargo pockets and ribbed knee cut-outs, laid flat on concrete.
Washed charcoal fleece cargo trousers with knee cut-outscottonFFLUENZAAa072
Detail of a fleece cargo trouser leg showing a raw-edged flap pocket, metal-tipped drawcord and a rib-bound knee cut-out.
Cargo pocket and knee cut-out of fleece trouserscottonFFLUENZAAa073
Washed brown hooded zip sweatshirt with raw-edged seams laid open over an olive nylon jacket with zip pockets, on a dark scuffed floor.
Washed brown hooded zip sweatshirt layered over an olive nylon outer jacketmixedFFLUENZAAa010
Back view of washed charcoal fleece cargo trousers with flap hip pockets, side cargo pockets and detachable lower legs, laid flat on concrete.
Back of washed charcoal fleece cargo trouserscottonFFLUENZAAa075
Detail of the back of fleece cargo trousers showing the ribbed waistband, grommeted flap pockets with raw-edged trim and the ribbed leg join.
Back pockets and waistband of fleece cargo trouserscottonFFLUENZAAa076
An overhead view of a cutting table holding the cut canvas pieces of a garment alongside a finished utility harness: a long strap with a metal buckle carrying four snap-flap pockets and a flat zipped pouch. Shears, a metal rule, a rotary cutter, an awl and an open tin of pins are ranged down the right-hand side.
Cutting table with canvas pattern pieces, a finished pocket harness and tailoring toolscottonSZAa381
A pale canvas vest panel laid on a gridded cutting mat, with four strap extensions running off the left edge, each finished with a metal snap. A separating zipper runs down the right side, a small reinforcement patch is applied near the centre, and blue tailor's chalk marks dot the upper chest.
Canvas vest panel with four snap straps and a side zipper on a cutting matcottonSZAa382
A technical line drawing shows a knee-high boot or gaiter in three views - front, side and back - built from stacked horizontal bands over a shaped shaft, with a full-length centre-back zip and a rounded foot.
Technical flat drawing of a banded knee-high boot or gaiter in three viewsSZAa445
Cut pattern pieces for a vest laid out on a green gridded cutting mat: a wide centre panel with a scalloped, pointed hem flanked by narrow curved side and facing pieces. The pale canvas carries faded printed lettering and a circled mark left over from its previous life as printed cloth.
Cut vest pattern pieces in pale canvas on a green cutting matcottonSZAa379
Black leather glove at the end of a black leather sleeve, arm extended against a pale grey wall
Black leather glove and sleeve, arm extended against a pale wallleatherNINE INCH NOIZEa216
Four black garments hung on a curtain rail above a bed: trousers, a jacket, distressed leather trousers and a crewneck knit
Four black garments hung on a curtain rail in a hotel roommixedNINE INCH NOIZEa236
Mottled off-white and grey hand-dyed cotton shorts with frayed waistband tabs and button fly, flat on a cutting mat.
Mottled hand-dyed shortscottonNINE INCH NOIZEa166
Back view of the same black sleeveless top, long leather gloves, black trousers and tall leather boots
Man wearing a black sleeveless top, long leather gloves and tall boots, back viewmixedNINE INCH NOIZEa238
A pair of white trousers laid flat on a dark wood floor, worked over with dense repair: faint circular shadows run in columns down both legs, small hand-darned patches interrupt the surface, and a contrasting white panel is joined across each knee with a raw, fraying seam allowance left exposed down the outer leg.
White distressed and patched trousers laid flat on a dark wood floorcotton2HOLLISa376
The same white trousers laid on a red patterned carpet with a cream, felted inner layer exposed across the seat and upper legs. The pale outer shell shows only at the waistband and the lower legs, and every joining seam is left raw with the allowance standing proud of the surface.
White trousers shown with cream felted inner panels, on a patterned carpetcotton2HOLLISa377
White jacket and trousers with gold cord embroidery, mirrored studs and matching boots, photographed from the chest down against an event backdrop.
White embroidered jacket and trousers worn at an event2HOLLISa105
A close detail of the waistband corner of a pair of white trousers, where a cream felted inner layer meets a smooth pale outer shell. The join is sewn with a raw seam allowance left standing on the face of the cloth, and a small hand-worked bar tack secures the centre seam.
Detail of a raw waistband seam and cream felted inner layer on white trousers2HOLLISa378
A full-length unstructured robe coat in tree-bark and leaf camouflage hangs open on a metal rail against a white painted brick wall. It has a collarless shawl-style front, long set-in sleeves and large patch pockets at the hip, and falls to the ankle.
Full-length camouflage robe coat hung open on a rail, front viewcottonSKIMSa403
The camouflage robe coat hangs with both fronts swept back to reveal an interior faced in the same tree-bark print, so the coat reads as one continuous camouflage inside and out. The open drape shows the full sweep of the skirt and the depth of the hip pockets.
Camouflage robe coat hung open to show the matching self-fabric interiorcottonSKIMSa405
The camouflage robe coat is shown from the back on the same rail, the wide dropped shoulders and straight back panel falling to the ankle. A self-fabric tie belt passes through back loops at the waist and hangs loose down one side.
Back view of the camouflage robe coat with its self-fabric belt hanging loosecottonSKIMSa404
Two long cut panels of a tree-bark and leaf camouflage print lie mirrored on a gridded cutting mat, forming the fronts of a full-length coat. Stacked bundles of matching camouflage and plain olive pieces, including pockets and facings, are sorted on the brown table beside them.
Cut panels for a long coat in tree-bark camouflage laid out on the cutting tablecottonSKIMSa402
Contact sheet of nine black and white stills: a figure in a ruffled white top and dark skirt among falling feathers, a swan on water, and close portraits.
Contact sheet of nine black and white film stillsNOT FOR RADIO — SWANa181
Wide-legged black trousers laid face-up on a gridded cutting mat, with red side panels and a red band circling each leg at the knee. Twin zips run through the knee bands so the lower legs detach, every colour break edged in white piping, an elasticated drawcord waist at the top and cord ties at the hems.
Wide black nylon trousers with red zip-off knee bands, front view on a cutting matnylonSP5DER WORLDWIDEa361
The wide black trousers turned over on the cutting mat to show the back, with red side panels running the full length of the legs, the red knee bands and their zips carrying round, a welt pocket set below the elasticated waistband and cord ties at each hem.
Back view of the zip-off trousers on a cutting matnylonSP5DER WORLDWIDEa363
The knee zip on the black trousers pulled part-way open, the two red coil tapes splayed apart to show the dark inside faces of the leg. White piping edges the red band above and below the opening, with loose red thread ends left at the seam.
The trousers' knee zip opened, showing the red zip tape and inside facesnylonSP5DER WORLDWIDEa365
A mirror photograph of the black trousers worn seated, one leg crossed, with the red knee zip opened so the red band gapes and a bare knee shows through the split. The white-piped red panels run down the outside of both legs to the hem.
Mirror self-portrait of the trousers worn seated with the knee zip openednylonSP5DER WORLDWIDEa367
Strapless floor-length gown of sheer black chiffon over a grey printed underlayer, with wrapped waist ties and a trailing hem, on a dress form in the studio.
Strapless gown of sheer black chiffon over a printed underlayer, with wrapped waist tiessilkDREAMHOUSEa253
Oversized olive hooded jacket with a centre zip and sculpted oval pocket openings, worn front-on against a canvas backdrop.
Oversized olive hooded jacket with sculpted oval pocketscottonSIBERIA HILLSa040
Cream padded hooded jacket, back view, with three circular openings down the centre back, contrast taped seams and ribbed cuffs and hem, laid on a tiled floor.
Cream padded hooded jacket with three circular openings down the backmixedSIBERIA HILLSa012
Pencil technical flats of a long coat, front and back, with numbered style notes
Pencil technical flats of a long coat and related piecesSIBERIA HILLSa268
Cream padded hooded jacket, front view, zipped, with two circular openings at the front, a zip sleeve pocket, contrast taped seams and ribbed cuffs and hem, laid on a tiled floor.
Cream padded hooded jacket with circular openings, front viewmixedSIBERIA HILLSa016
Washed black padded hooded jacket with curved seam panels, round set-in pockets, a sleeve zip pocket and ribbed cuffs and hem, laid flat on a tiled floor.
Washed black hooded puffer jacket with round pocketsSIBERIA HILLSa091
A pair of cut-off indigo denim shorts lies front side up on a scuffed concrete floor, the legs chopped short and left to fray into long pale threads. Heavy vertical fading runs down the front, the fly and belt loops are intact and the hems are unfinished.
Cut-off indigo denim shorts with frayed raw hems, front view on concretedenimFARMERS DAUGHTERa400
The same cut-off denim shorts are shown back side up on the concrete floor, with two patch back pockets, a felled centre seam and raw hems frayed into pale fringe. One pocket carries a curved double row of tonal topstitching and the denim is worn thin and dark across the seat.
Back view of the cut-off denim shorts showing patch pockets and frayed hemsdenimFARMERS DAUGHTERa401
The same faded black fleece sweat shorts are shown flat from a second angle on a gridded cutting table, the ribbed elastic waistband gathered across the top and the wide legs spread to show their full width. Inch and yard markings printed on the mat run along the bottom of the frame.
Second view of the black fleece sweat shorts flat on the cutting tablecottonFARMERS DAUGHTERa391
Black-and-white photograph of a performer singing into a handheld microphone on stage before a large outdoor crowd, wearing a black open-back gown with a lace bodice and a long tiered ruffled skirt.
Black lace and tiered ruffle gown worn by a performer on stagemixedTHE MARÍASa287
Person kneeling on grass at night in a black open-back gown, the lace-corset back panel and long ruffled train spread across the ground.
Black lace and tiered ruffle gown with open back, wornmixedTHE MARÍASa286
Sheer black gown with thorn embroidery and a tiered frayed chiffon skirt, back view with an open low back, worn against a plywood wall.
Sheer embroidered gown with thorn motif, back, wornlaceTHE MARÍASa195
Full-length black gown on a hanger against a stucco wall: sheer embroidered lace bodice over an ivory panel, with a long tiered ruffled skirt.
Black lace and tiered ruffle gown, full lengthmixedTHE MARÍASa282
Inside a canvas tent lit warm at night, a figure in a black tank with a wide armband sits at the edge of the frame in profile, while the open tent flap reveals a star-filled sky and drifting haze beyond.
Night interior of a canvas tent with a seated figure, stars and haze visible through the openingDON TOLIVIERa441
Back view of the same look against the white brick wall, showing the studded double belt, the rear of the distressed brown trousers and the slouched shafts of the tall boots, with a mallet hanging from the holster.
Back view of the same styled look: white rib tank, distressed brown trousers, tool belt and tall bootsDON TOLIVIERa431
A model stands against a white painted brick wall in a white ribbed tank and heavily distressed brown trousers, styled with a doubled belt, a leather tool holster carrying a mallet, black gloves and tall worn boots. A basket of garments and a crate of bottles sit at the edge of the frame.
Full-length front view of a styled look: white rib tank, distressed brown trousers, tool belt and tall bootsDON TOLIVIERa430
Four models stand together on a night exterior set under orange light and haze, wearing distressed, layered looks: cropped and cut-away tops, utility harnesses and tool belts, brief bottoms and tall boots, with a canvas tent and scattered camp props behind them.
Four models in distressed workwear-inspired looks on a night set lit orange, with a canvas tent behindDON TOLIVIERa434
A model stands against a black tarpaulin backdrop on gravel, wearing a cropped red-and-white striped top with pale shoulder panels over very low-rise faded jeans carrying a printed graphic across the front, finished with fingerless gloves and tall oxblood boots.
Full-length look: cropped red-and-white striped top with low-rise distressed jeans and riding bootsdenimDON TOLIVIERa432
Model standing in a gravel lot in front of a corrugated metal building, wearing a gold satin zip-front top, a black skirt, sheer hosiery, long black gloves and laced black knee boots, with a white sports car parked alongside.
Gold satin zip top with black skirt, gloves and knee bootsmixedYOUNG THUG — I FUCKING TOLD YOUa294
Model reclining full length on a green velvet sofa against a wood-panelled wall, wearing a gold satin top, a short draped skirt, sheer thigh-high hosiery, long black gloves and black patent knee boots.
Gold satin top and draped skirt, reclining lookmixedYOUNG THUG — I FUCKING TOLD YOUa296
Styling pull contact sheet showing thirty-six front, side and back frames of a single model in assorted looks against a plain wall, headed "I FUCKING TOLD YOU" with "Extras - Styling Pulls" at the right.
Styling pull contact sheet, 36 framesmixedYOUNG THUG — I FUCKING TOLD YOUa348
Model reclining on a green velvet sofa against a wood-panelled wall, wearing a gold satin top, a draped skirt, sheer thigh-high hosiery, long black gloves and black knee boots.
Gold satin top and draped skirt, seated lookmixedYOUNG THUG — I FUCKING TOLD YOUa295
A fitting in a raw industrial space: one person adjusts the waist of a draped mini skirt on a model wearing a gold zip-front top, sheer hosiery, long black gloves and black knee boots.
Fitting of a gold zip top and draped mini skirtmixedYOUNG THUG — I FUCKING TOLD YOUa293
Black pleated jersey head wrap on a linen head form, three-quarter view
Black pleated jersey head wrapcottonCOLLAGENa150
Black pleated jersey head wrap on a linen head form, opposite three-quarter view showing the printed lettering
Black pleated jersey head wrap, opposite three-quarter viewcottonCOLLAGENa152
Pencil sketch of a cropped bomber jacket with a ribbed collar and hem, zip front, slanted pockets and gloves at the cuffs
Pencil sketch of a cropped bomber jacket with gloves at the cuffsCOLLAGENa214
Black pleated jersey head wrap on a linen head form, front view
Black pleated jersey head wrap, front viewcottonCOLLAGENa151
Four rendered fashion flats on white: a loose sheer button-down shirt with a chest pocket, a hooded leather jacket worn open over a ruched printed tank, a pair of translucent gloves, and a pair of black gloves with a zip at the wrist.
Rendered fashion flats: sheer shirt, hooded leather jacket over a printed tank, and two pairs of glovesCOLLAGENa446
Black tiered taffeta skirt with a gathered waist, shown on a hanger in the studio beside a vintage dress form.
Black tiered taffeta skirt on a hangerPERSONALa136
Black tiered taffeta skirt on a hanger, wider view showing the studio wall, dress form and rack of utility jackets behind.
Black tiered taffeta skirt on a hanger, wider viewPERSONALa137
Sheer white tailored jacket with structured shoulders, stand collar and a peplum, with a matching skirt, on a dress form against a grey backdrop.
Sheer white tailored jacket with peplum and matching skirtPERSONALa038
Black tiered taffeta skirt on a hanger, closer view showing the waistband, the open centre-back zip and the top tier.
Black tiered taffeta skirt, waistband and open zipPERSONALa138
Close view of the waistband, open zip and gathered tiers of a black taffeta skirt on a hanger.
Waistband, zip opening and gathered tiers of a black taffeta skirtPERSONALa139
One garment, start to finish

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